It is a bit tricky getting around the crown, but it can be done. Jane’s class taught how to make the straw hats on a standard home machine. I made several straw plait hats after taking a class from Jane Smith at Morley College, London and loved the process and the results. Straw Plait Bonnet by Leanne Fredrick Millinery Straw Plait hat in progress by Leanne Fredrick Millinery It gave the names of several brands that I believe would fall under the name 17 Guinea and also gave me a sense of confidence in finding one.
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The article did a great job of showing how to clean and maintain the machines. Not long ago the Hatlines magazine published by the Netherlands Hat Association, had an article about these old sewing machines. I have looked on and off over the years for a “17 Guinea” with no success. At the time it was worth 1 stone (6.35 kg/14 lbs) of wool or 3 days wages for skilled tradesman, which doesn’t seem like very much for a sewing machine. The National Archives estimated the value in 1880 as equivalent £69.49 as of 2017. According to Wikipedia a Guinea is worth 1 Pound & 1 Shilling. I am not sure where the term 17 Guinea comes from as the Guinea was replaced by the Pound coin in 1816 and these machines are later 1800s and early 1900s. There was one that sat in the corner with a clear upturned box covering it to protect the 17 Guinea, as she calls it, from being knocked about and keep the dust off. I was first introduced to the idea of a straw plait (braid) sewing machine while working at Edwina Ibbotson’s.
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Spanner (wrench), needles, tweezers, screw driver and oil bottle.
I can now check off one of those items after winning an eBay auction a few weeks ago. One is a hot block hat stretcher and the other is a Willcox & Gibbs straw sewing machine. I have had two big ticket items on my millinery wish list for a while now.
Here are some pictures of the machine and interesting links to 17 Guinea, Hatlines #71, Straw hats, Alex Askaroff, Mad Hatter Blog, and how to lock a Chain Stitch. Introducing my new baby, a Willcox & Gibbs S200 straw plait (braid) sewing machine.
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